I just finished reading Michael Ruhlman's The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chef's Craft for Every Kitchen
, which is 1/3 essay and 2/3 reference guide. It may sound like a funny thing to sit down and read cover-to-cover but one of my favorite non-fiction books is Words on Words
, a reference book exploring the origins of various words and phrases in a mildly insulting way. Yes, I sit around reading reference books. Wanna fight about it?
Ruhlman puts a lot of emphasis on making your own stock, which, yes yes yes, you gotta make homemade stock. Store-bought stock... it's like having a cup of weak tea when you're dying for a mug of strong black coffee. Technically, they are both hot morning beverages but to say they are the same thing is silliness.
But Ruhlman emphasizes veal stock, which is a problem in this household for a couple of reasons:
1) We have a 14-square foot refrigerator. I know bones don't have to hang around for long, but it's far more practical for me to make room for a roast chicken that we can have for two meals before it ends up in the stock pot.
2) It's veal. Now, I am not so stupid as to think that when I go out to eat, the chef isn't spiking sauces and whatnot back there with veal stock (and gobs of butter) but I just can't bring myself to go out and buy veal. The ethical issues surrounding of veal are well-documented, I won't go into it here, and I already feel an ethical weight regarding my choices in the grocery store... I don't need to add veal to the list.
3) I make a kick-ass chicken stock that is magical on its own. Now, I won't claim it's equivalent to veal stock, but that's okay. I'm not really interested in trying to imitate the work that happens in a professional kitchen because, well, I'm not a professional. I'm a home cook and I like that. Now, if I was over at French Laundry at Home, I would be making veal stock because with a project like that, you've got to go big or not at all.
4) Chicken stock speaks to my frugal nature. I know, I probably don't seem like a very frugal person at all with all I cook, but I'm a wee bit fanatical about trying to waste nothing and spend as reasonably as possible. I love that I can roast a chicken, serve roast chicken for dinner, then pick the carcass clean the next day and make curried chicken salad or whatever, and then make stock with the carcass. My eyes, they gleam with penny-pinching delight. Here's how I make mine:
Ingredients
1 chicken carcass (don't worry about picking it too clean-- bits of meat and skin will add flavor while the bones will give gelatin.)
2 onions, roughly chopped
3-4 carrots, roughly chopped (I was really lazy with my chopping this time. Sorry, carrots!)
1-2 celery ribs, roughly chopped
a few peppercorns
1 big bay leaf
Now, you're going to learn how you like your stock as you go. Some people add garlic and I try that every once in a while. Anytime you try something new, write a reminder to yourself on the container. Monkey around with herbs and other aromatics. You'll find a combination that speaks to you before long.
My father-in-law and I have long talks about making stock (he makes a chicken/beef blend that he gives out to people he likes and thank goodness we are people he likes! Did I marry into the right family or what?) and we both agree that you can almost never have too many onions or carrots but celery is another thing entirely. Too much celery will make a stock bitter and weird-tasting.
How To
Dump all of your ingredients (save the peppercorns and bay leaf) into a pan and pop it in the oven at 350 degrees. Let everything roast for about thirty minutes or until everything is nice and brown and fragrant. Watch your bones-- burn them and you're sunk.
While everything roasts, bring a kettle of water to boil and get your crock pot or stock pot ready. I'm a big fan of my crock-pot
:
But you can also use a stock pot over very low heat. I prefer my crock pot because I have a gas stove, which I just don't feel comfortable leaving on while I'm out (I imagine the cat climbing up there and setting her tail on fire or something) and a crock pot is great for cooking stock because it abides by the #1 rule of making stock:
Don't boil it. Don't even simmer it, if you can help it.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Once your bones and veggies are roasted, dump everything in your stock pot or crock pot. Now, take that boiling water and use it to clean all the lovely brown bits from your pan and dump that water over the chicken. Mmm. (Why boil the water first? Cold water + hot pan = warped pan. The pan may even "pop" and splatter everywhere. You don't want that.)
Pour additional water into the pot to cover and then add the bay leaf, peppercorns and any other herbs. Put it on very, very low heat or the low setting on the crock pot. Let it go for three or four hours. Scum will start to come to the top and you should scrape that off from time to time but there is no reason to stir it.
Your house will smell wonderful. Now it's time to stain your stock. I do this in two times-- once with a regular strainer to take out the big stuff, then a second time through a strainer I've lined with cheesecloth.
Cheesecloth
, how I love thee. So cheap, so useful! But someone tell me what is going on with this package image-- are they straining tomato soup on top of a car? Hmm.

Chill the broth overnight. The fat will come to the top and you'll skim that off and be left with lovely, gelatinous, golden chicken stock. If space is an issue for you, like it is for me, you can reduce the sauce further by simmering it for a while.
I realize this probably sounds sort of complicated but it really, really isn't. You'll do it in your sleep after a few times and it just feels so good to walk into a house where stock has been cooking.